The first week with a puppy sets the tone for everything that follows — and it goes far more smoothly if the house is ready before the puppy is in it. This checklist covers what to have in place, what to do each day, and the mistakes almost every new owner makes.
Before the puppy arrives
Essentials to have ready
Puppy-proofing in 20 minutes
- Move cables, shoes, children’s toys and anything chewable above knee height.
- Lock away cleaning products, medicines, chocolate, grapes, raisins and xylitol-sweetened products — all toxic to dogs.
- Check the garden fence for gaps a small puppy could squeeze through, and remove toxic plants.
- Decide now which rooms are puppy rooms and which are off-limits, and keep it consistent.
Day by day: a realistic first week
Day 1 — arrival
Keep it quiet. Take the puppy straight to the toileting spot in the garden, then let them explore one room. No visitors. Feed at the breeder’s usual times. Expect crying at night: a crate next to your bed, a warm bed and a ticking clock or soft radio all help. Take the puppy out when they wake, even at 3 a.m.
Days 2–3 — routine
Start a predictable rhythm: wake, toilet, breakfast, toilet, play, nap, repeat. Puppies need 18–20 hours of sleep a day; an overtired puppy bites and cannot settle. Register with a vet and book the first health check and vaccination appointment if the breeder has not already started them.
Days 4–5 — handling and name
Gently touch paws, ears and mouth for a few seconds at a time, followed by a treat. Say the puppy’s name once and reward when they look at you. Begin carrying the puppy outside (not on the ground until vaccinations are complete) to see traffic, people and other sounds from a safe distance.
Days 6–7 — first lessons
Put the harness on for a minute at a time indoors with treats. Practise a few seconds alone in the pen while you are in the room, building up slowly. Introduce the brush for thirty seconds. Celebrate every successful toilet trip outdoors — it is the single most important habit of the week.
Feeding in the first weeks
Stick to the breeder’s food for a fortnight; a sudden change on top of a house move is a common cause of upset stomachs. Puppies under three months usually need four meals a day, dropping to three at around three months and two by six months. Follow the chart on the pack for quantities and ask your vet to check weight at each visit.
Puppy Feeding Guide
How many meals a day a puppy usually needs at each stage. Amounts vary a lot by food, so always use the feeding chart on the pack for grams.
General guidance only. Your vet or breeder knows your puppy; follow their advice and the food manufacturer’s chart for quantities.
What you do not need yet
- An expensive bed — wait until the chewing and accidents are over.
- A retractable lead.
- Dozens of toys; three well-chosen ones are enough.
- Puppy clothes, unless your vet recommends a coat for a very small breed in winter.
Frequently asked questions
When can my puppy go outside?
Puppies can go into your own secure garden straight away. For walks in public places, most vets advise waiting until a week or two after the final vaccination in the primary course. Carry your puppy out before then so they still see the world.
Should the puppy sleep in my room?
For the first weeks, having the crate beside your bed reduces night-time distress and makes toilet trips easier. You can gradually move it to its permanent spot once the puppy is settled.
How long can a puppy hold their bladder?
A rough rule is one hour per month of age during the day, so an eight-week-old puppy needs to go out at least every two hours, and after every meal, nap and play session.
My puppy cries in the crate — should I ignore it?
Not entirely. Check they do not need the toilet, then sit quietly nearby without opening the crate until they settle for a moment, and reward calm. Leaving a very young puppy to cry for long periods can make the crate a place of fear.
